Stanley 78 plane dating

The Type 1 cap has a screw with fine vertical knurling whereas Type 2 caps have coarse vertical knurling For details of the screw holding the Lever Cap to the body Type 1 is slightly longer at 80mm than Type 2 at 78mm, both being 36mm wide. The fence is 21cm long and the coarse vertically knurled nickel plated iron screws are 17mm long and 4mm thick. As shown above you will note that there were 2 types of Fence which belonged respectively to the 2 Types of A78 that I have found.

Type 2 fences show a more straight angular appearance at the attachment arm whereas Type 1 fences show a rounded shape here and a small rise up to the screw position. Type 2 fences all have casting numbers on the top or inside of the fence whereas Type 1 fences do not have casting numbers.

The 2 arms [officially called supporting rails] are around 8. This screw action is aided by having a hole drilled through the arm at the distant end in which to insert a small bar. Something that is missing in the design of many arms of planes from other manufacturers.

They are made of steel, but the nickel plating is usually worn thin from usage. The bearing surface of the gauge is 6. Note that the trailing arm is longer than the leading arm whereas other manufacturers had equal length arms. The majority of gauges seem to show casting numbers at the top inside or outside face, and the gauges that fit the Type 1 planes have a wider extruded groove to fit in the wider slot of Type 1 planes The gauge screw is 2.

The body shows the major differences between Type 1 and Type 2 planes. On both types the base is around When the cutter is in the central position fine vertical adjustment of the cutting iron is controlled by a plated steel lever. Type 1 is 48mm and Type 2 is 54mm long.

A 78 is very handy. I use mine a good bit. It's not a very complicated or finicky beast in my expereince, so the bodging shouldn't matter much. Strip it, paint it up pretty, sharpen the blade and make some rabbets! The Woden has a front knob that mounts wherever the blade ain't, easy enuf to turn on a lathe, and it adds just a tad more control to the Stanley Still has only one bar holding the fence though. I think the Record 78 equivalent has two!!! Hi all, I recently purchased an old Stanley no. I realize this isn't actually a question, but i would appreciate some comments on this idea Lastly, how can I determine the age of the plane?

Stanley 78 modification

I bought mine not due to some need to use it, but mostly because i thought it was pretty and wanted to give it a good home Any info would be greatly appreciated -pjw. Flat list Threaded list. Date - newest first Date - oldest first. So I think you're safe re-habbing a Flea Market find.

Can't wait to get this back into working condition -pjw. Hope that helps a tad. Solid Wood Beds For Sale 5 replies. New online wood cutting planning tool available. What to do when your home smells like smoke? What article discussed cutting thick boards on an angle to get rift sawn legs. Using epoxy to stabilize a bad crack. Help to figure out math for slat bed 1 reply.

Resurrecting a Stanley No. 78

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Number 78 Plane Type Study

Selling a Diefenbach workbench - not sure what to ask for it. Pewter Inlays 19 replies. Top 5 woodworking books which I have read. Share your's 1 reply. Cheap moisture meter 5 replies. Choosing a bench grinder 8 replies. Makita Thickness Planner feed ro Boxes with hidden internal locks 20 replies. New Tablesaw 15 replies. The plane itself is marked 72 but the beading attachment has no markings, save for the patent dates that are normally found stamped into the blade securing nut.


This nut, originally brass and slotted, was later made as a nickel plated thumb screw. The cutter is held in place with a staple like cast clamping piece. If this clamping piece is broken or missing, good luck trying to make it look original. The plane is very seldom found with all its parts bull nose, regular sole, and beading attachment. If you're a collector, buying just the molding attachment alone, with its cutters, can set you back a few bucks.

The Superior Works: Stanley Blood and Gore Planes #71 - #87

The earliest models have polished brass on all but the two cast iron pieces, but the later ones are finished with nickel plating. Check that the adjusting wheel isn't stripped. Also check the lower piece where the adjusting screw engages as it buttresses the cutter's carrier. This area is rather small and somewhat fragile and can crack. Don't think many of us are gonna be using this one. It was designed to plane broad wooden surfaces such as bowling alleys, ship decks, floors, or whatever. This is Stanley's only plane that is used not on a bench in the standing position - a long handle is used to push the plane.

It's also one of the most difficult planes to find in original condition; for example, it's far easier to find a or than it is to find one of these in minty unmodified condition with the original handle. The plane has a 45" long turned round handle that slips into a pivotting hollowed receiver that's attached on the main casting, below the blade. On the handle are two maple or beech totes. Each of these totes sit atop a nickeled casting to provide a flat base.

The casting has a hole through so that a forging can pass through it; the lower end of the forging is looped to slip over the handle and the upper end is threaded to receive the brass tote nut. The totes themselves are rather primitive looking things floor planing is a rather oafish job afterall and there's really no need to provide a Mercedes when a Yugo will do with a mostly 'vertical' profile. They don't have pronounced horns like those used on the bench planes. Some users removed the horns altogether so that they could butt the totes in the palms of their hands rather than wrap their hands around them.

The totes can be positioned anywhere along the length of the handle and anywhere around the handle. The brass tote nut is loosened with a screwdriver, which then allows the handle to be rotated or moved along the handle. When tightened, the brass nut draws the looped end of the forging upward against the wooden handle to secure it in the desired position. Many of the brass nuts are munged from use. Many of the totes are also damaged, more often than not cracked, from use.

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Some guys shim the tote nut with washers in the tote's countersunk cavity so that the tote nut stands proud of the top of the tote. Most of the planes are found without the handle. It's a good bet that guys found them better for staking tomatos than for floor planing. Most of the handles found on the planes are latter day reproductions. A missing handle seriously devalues the collectibility and that's all the plane is good for, right?

The main casting is just the on tool sterrhoids, but with the aforementioned pivotting receiver. The receiver is secuted to the main casting with a rod that screw through the cheeks of the plane the rod is slotted on the left side. Check that the receiver isn't damaged where it pivots about the rod - it can crack or break out there.

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  7. A double iron is used in this tool. The iron is the same as that used on the 8 sized bench planes, but the cap iron is unique to the plane as it isn't cut out to accept an adjusting fork; the iron is adjusted manually. If you need a cap iron, good luck finding it as this is the only Stanley plane that was equipped with such a cap iron. In fact, the only part you can snarf from this plane to use on others is the iron. But, you'd be foolish to do that, so don't. The iron rests upon two sloping projections that arise from the main casting. These projections are milled so that they are coplanar.